The general appearance and impression of the finished product largely depend on how to hem the skirt. Therefore, I devote a separate master class to processing the bottom of the skirt. We will consider in detail how to properly hem a pencil skirt and several other options for processing the bottom.
The first thing to do is measure the skirt and specify its final length. As an example, make a mark in front of the desired height, we will focus on it.
Fold the skirt so that the side seams are aligned, and the folds are in the middle of the front and rear panels of the skirt.
The pencil skirt is narrowed on the sides, so when unfolding on the table, its bottom has a curved appearance. This is perfectly normal for a skinny skirt. The smaller the narrowing, the straighter the bottom line. For a straight skirt, it is completely flat.
Before hemming a skirt, draw a bottom line. Draw a line through our mark to the side seam. This line should be at an angle of 90 ° to the fold of the front panel of the skirt (you can check with a triangle). We also act with the rear panel.
|Fig. 1. How to hem a skirt|
Before hemming a skirt, draw a bottom line. Draw a line through our mark to the side seam.
This line should be at an angle of 90 ° to the fold of the front panel of the skirt (you can check with a triangle). We also act with the rear panel - Fig. 1.
|Fig. 2. Smooth rounding of the bottom line|
These two lines converge at one point on the side seam and form an angle that needs to be smoothly rounded. To do this (best of all according to the patterns) we draw a smooth line a little lower. We got the bottom line of the skirt - Fig. 2.
|Fig. 3. How to hem a skirt|
Now you need to align the allowance for the hem, cut off the excess. The normal allowance for processing the bottom of the skirt is 3-4 cm. Here at such a distance from the first line below, draw another line in parallel - this is the cut line - Fig. 3.
|Fig. 4. How to hem a skirt|
On the first line, pin the skirt with pins to fix two layers of fabric. Now, along the cut line, we cut off everything unnecessary - Fig. 4.
|Fig. 5. How to hem a skirt|
Do not rush to remove the pins - on the back of the skirt they will help to copy the bottom line. We put marks, on them we draw a line - fig. 5.
|Fig. 6. How to hem a skirt|
We continue processing the bottom of the skirt - wrap the cut, turn it inside out exactly along our line, pin it with pins. We do this around the bottom of the skirt - Fig. 6.
In order to hem the skirt evenly, the fold is neatly ironed from the wrong side. Try not to hit the pins with an iron - traces remain from them.
|Fig. 7. How to hem a skirt|
After removing the pins, you can iron again.
It remains to work with a needle and thread. Classic skirts are most often hemmed by a blind stitch manually or by car. If your car performs a secret line and its quality suits you, then this option is also possible. Here we will consider the most, in my opinion, reliable and impeccable in quality - manual blind seam - Fig. 8.
|Fig. 8. How to hem a skirt|
How to hem a hem in a hidden seam
The thread and needle should be thin. This is especially important for thin and dense fabrics, when it is very difficult to make stitches invisible.
We begin to hem the bottom of the skirt from the slots (if any) or from the side seam.
The seam should not extend along the edge of the allowance, but 3-5 mm lower. It is most convenient to bend the bottom of the skirt to the front side, so that the edge of the allowance sticks up - Fig. 8.
Cling the fabric with a needle so that it goes into the thickness of the fabric, without piercing it through. You can grab more allowance. The distance between the needle punctures is 5 mm.
|Fig. 9. How to hem a skirt|
The thread should go freely - Fig. 9. When the thread is tightened, the seam will not become stronger. Every 10 cm of the seam, stretch the stitched section of the bottom of the skirt so that the thread relaxes. The more the fabric stretches, the weaker the thread should go. Then the seam will not tear when worn.
If you are sewing a skirt with a slot, combine the processing of the bottom of the skirt with the processing of the slots.
How to hem pants yourself
In order to hem trousers, you will need a sewing machine, tailor's chalk or soap, scissors, about 110 cm of braid to match the color of the fabric and thread with a needle.
Be sure to try on pants with shoes. If the owner of the trousers wears a belt, he must also be worn.
The length of the classic trousers should reach the middle of the heel. If the trousers are narrow, that is, the width of the trouser leg is less than 22 cm, the trousers can be made a little shorter, then they will not wrinkle much below.
In the fitting, bend the bottom of the trousers outward and stab with pins from the back and front.
Lay the trousers on a flat surface and draw two lines - one bottom line in the finished form, the second - the stock line for the hem. In men's trousers, the optimal supply is 3.5-4 cm. A larger supply is left on children's trousers - for growth.
Trim the excess fabric and trim the sections.
Sew trouser braid: there are special textured strips on it - it is easy to navigate them when laying a line. The first line is laid at a distance of 2 mm from the edge - this is the distance between the edge of the pants and the textured strip.
Sew the braid in two lines. It is convenient to sew, without interrupting the lines, on both lines.
Sew round the first stitch around. Slightly not reaching the end of the tape, stop and bend the tip inwards by 1 cm (the fold overlaps the beginning of the tape with an overlap).
Sew to this bend, lower the needle down, raise the foot and unfold the product on the needle. Sew along the fold of the braid with a tack (back and forth). Raise the foot again, unfold the product and complete the second stitch.
Iron the braid. Design a hem for the bottom of the trousers, sweeping the braid so that it is visible from the front by 2 mm. Hem the hem with a hidden stitch.
Without removing the outlines, iron the bottom through a damp cloth. Remove the basting and iron again.
How to hem a skirt yourself
In models sewn from thin fabrics, the bottom is treated with a seam in a hem with a closed cut.
It is necessary to bend the lower cut of the fabric to the wrong side by 1 cm. Fold and iron the bend. Bend the bottom hem allowance to the wrong side along the marked line of 1-1.5 cm. Sweep and iron the bend. In straight-cut skirts, the width of the hem can be 3-4 cm, and on flared skirts - 1.5–2 cm. Then hem the bottom of the skirt with hidden stitches or sew on a typewriter.
In models of skirts made of dense fabrics, the bottom is treated almost the same way, the difference is that the hem is done once. An open cut before processing the bottom needs to be processed with an overlock or zigzag.
Do not hem the bottom of straight classic skirts on a typewriter, do the hem by hand with hidden stitches - it will be more beautiful.
And one more tip: if you did not pick up the threads to match the fabric (it happens that there is no such tone of the threads in the store), you can use a thread pulled from the remnants of the fabric. Punctures will not be visible on the front side, the thread will merge with the tone of the fabric.
There is another way to process the bottom of the product - duct tape. To do this, carefully place it between the hem and the skirt and iron it with a hot iron. The tape will securely fix the bottom hem.