Hello dear readers of the blog milla-sidelnikova.com!
Want to add to your skirts, dresses or blouses, femininity, romance, playfulness, mankess? Make shuttlecocks, ruffles or ruffles on them. Not at all, only at some. To not be too!
Shuttlecocks, ruffles or ruffles are performed on models of thin and medium soft tissues, therefore, when moving and from the slightest breath of the breeze, they play like waves of playful waves.
Very often, simple sewing lovers confuse shuttlecocks, ruffles, ruffles.
Ruffles, ruffles, shuttlecocks, of course, are similar to each other in some ways of processing sections and attaching to the product, and yet, these are completely different decoration elements.
Therefore, let's get to know them better, more closely. And the first thing we’re going to do today is frills.
Wrap (plural wraps) are elements that are made for the purpose of decoration. Ruffles can be found on women's clothing, on children's, as well as on items intended for home decoration - tablecloths, bedspreads, curtains, bedding, all kinds of covers, etc.
The rim is a strip of fabric, one long longitudinal edge of which is assembled and sewn onto the main product. The second is processed in one of the ways and remains free, flown away.
Ruffles can be made from the main fabric or from additional. And that can be either sharply contrasting to the main color of the product, or to the color of the main or one of the color tones of the product.
Types of frills.
Ruffles differ from each other:
1. Location on the product.
Ruffles can be located on products - horizontally, vertically, along the lines of coquette, along structural seams, etc.
2. The shape of the detail of the cut (see below in the article, section cut).
3. The method of processing slices (see article processing frills).
If necessary, you can cut the frill yourself.
The cut detail of the frill can take the form of a rectangle, triangle, trapezoid.
Moreover, not always short, transverse (1 or 2) and lower longitudinal sections of the frills have an even, straight cut line. It can be curved, and in the most diverse way (it depends on the desire of the "creator" frill and the features of the model). For example, like this.
Most often, the frill pattern is laid out on the fabric along the oblique thread, at an angle of 45 ° to the warp thread, sometimes along the transverse thread.
The width of the frill depends on the style of the model and the properties of the fabric from which the frill is made and can be from 1.5 to 30 cm. To this, you also need to add 1.5 - 2 cm to the seams along the upper and lower sections.
The length of the cut detail of the frill determines how the finished frill will look. The longer the detail of the cut of the frill, the thicker will be its upper cut, which means the frill on the finished product will look more magnificent.
For not very lush frills, its upper section should be 1.5 times longer than the grind line.
For such a normal, good splendor of the frill, the upper cut of the frill should be 2 times longer than the stitching line.
Well, for thin, easily draped fabrics, you can take three lengths of the seam line.
Regardless of the length of the future detail of the cut of the frill, we add from the side of each short, transverse section from 0.5 to 1.5 cm (depending on the properties of the fabric and the features of the model) to the seam allowances.
Of course, it’s best when the frill is one-piece. She looks better and fuss with her processing less. Therefore, laying out the details of the cut, do not forget about the frills, especially long and wide.
Well, when there is not enough fabric for one whole piece of frill, you will have to compose it from several separately cut out.
A finished frill, consisting of several separate parts, on some models simply must look like a whole. And then, the frill details cut out separately, on the same models (optional, according to the situation) should ideally be combined with each other by patterns of cells, lines, directions of floral patterns, etc.
On other models, a different direction of the picture, on several details of the same frill, can be an additional decorative effect. In this case, you need to carefully monitor the symmetry of the arrangement of the pattern of such details. For example, like this.
Do not forget about the seam allowances on such parts! They should be mandatory for the details of the cut, but do not participate in the matter of combining the drawing. Only the main, without allowances, part of the cut parts.
For frills, which will be laid in pleats, pleats of pleated pleats and corrugations, the details of the pattern are laid out along a shared thread or transverse.
The length of the details of the cut for the frills, which will be laid in the folds, pleats of pleats or corrugations, depends on the type, and therefore the depth of the folds that will be performed on the frill (you need to calculate).
Sew a rim.
When a whole-cut detail of a cut of a frill needs to be “turned” into a ring, short, transverse sections of one whole-cut part of a cut of a frill are connected by a seam.
And when I kiss, a large frill must be made up of separately cut parts, sections of these parts are also connected by a seam.
Seam allowances for such compounds leave from 0.5 to 0.7 cm, depending on the tear off of the sections.
And they grind together with a seam.
Of course, it will be best if the cuts of the allowances for the seams, no matter how many there are, are processed from shedding. Ruffles - loose parts, well, or almost loose. Their movements are almost unlimited, and not good at all if protruding threads can be seen from under the taking-up ruffles, from completed seams.
Now you need to process the frill sections. You can read about methods for processing frill sections by clicking on the link to this article. After processing the lower, and if necessary, then short, transverse or two sections, the upper section of the frill also needs to be processed. It must be picked up. How to do this, you can see in this article.
A frill uniformly gathered along the entire length is considered to be qualitatively executed on the product. There are two ways to achieve this result.
The first. Having picked up the upper cut of the frill to the length of the stitching line, with our hands we evenly distribute the formed folds.
And after that, with pins and a manual basting stitch, we begin to attach the upper cut of the frill to the main product.
The second way. We lay on both sides, applied, along the upper edge of the frill, the stitch lines, two hand stitches with straight stitches.
Pins pin the frill to the main part. First, the edges, then the middle, then the middle of two sagging segments, once again the middle, newly formed, but already in four smaller segments, etc.
And when the frill is securely and evenly fixed to the main part, you only have to pull the ends of the laid hand stitches and fix the assembly on the product with pins and a manual basting stitch.
Here is such an article with me today!
And how, this splendor is a frill, “attached” to the product, you can find in the next publication.
Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!
What to consider when cutting
If you want to sew a dress, blouse or skirt with similar details and intend to cut it yourself, you will have to determine exactly how much fabric is required. To get beautiful folds, you need to consider the build factor. It varies from 1.5 to 2. Choose the minimum value if you want to get a barely noticeable assembly, and the maximum when volumetric is required.
Of great importance is the type of folds and the way they are formed. If it is constructively expected to obtain a simple dressing, then the tissue consumption is determined by multiplying by the selected coefficient. The additional length of matter on the formation of oncoming and bow folds is determined differently. To do this, you need to collect them, and then measure how many centimeters of fabric it takes to drape, and multiply by the number of elements in the product.
How to evenly pick up fabric manually
To get a beautiful assembly, you need to make markings on the fabric, and then you need to perform operations according to the algorithm below:
- Use a ruler and a tailor's chalk or disappearing marker to mark the needle puncture sites.
- Find the necessary accessories (you will need a strong thread and a long needle to work).
- Sew stitches to the designated points.
- After that, pull the fabric, forming folds.
- When the part size reaches the desired size, tack and distribute the material evenly.
- To make the seam strong enough, lay reinforcing stitch.
In this simple way, you can manually drape.
Assembly using a sewing machine or overlock
This method is the easiest and most reliable. Assembly using a sewing machine or overlock will not take much time. And special paws and accessories will not only speed up the process, but also significantly improve the aesthetics of the product. Professionals advise to thread in the device not a usual thread for sewing, but silk.
The upper tension regulator on the machine needs to be loosened, the stitch value is set to the maximum value. You will get an amazing effect if you lay not one, but two lines located at a distance of 3-5 mm. Now you need to pick up the fabric. To do this, pull the thread from both ends of the seam, smoothing the material. You need to pull the thread from the wrong side so that the folds are formed on the front.
With the help of a modern overlock, you can make pick-up even faster. To do this, set the stitch length to maximum, turn the differential handle to the “Assembly” designation, in this case, the pitch of the stitch is better to choose 4 mm. The thread tension does not need to be changed. Now it remains to lay a seam, and you will receive a part with an assembly.